Day Four - Marina di Campo
So we thought long and hard - and decided to stay and enjoy this place. We went ashore in the toy boat to negotiate with the port authorities. Here in Elba, the somewhat arrogant British assumption that everyone speaks our language has broken down. Here almost nobody speaks English - including the people on the other end of VHF Channel 9. No Italian, no berth - it's that simple.
However, these guys seemed keen to help so after a bit of pointing at Google translate on i-Phone we were getting there - and then they spotted one of the restaurant owners on the quay who spoke English. The upshot was that there are five spots for visitors, stern on to the breakwater and three were already taken. So Peter and I beetled back to the boat in the pudding bowl and weighed anchor. With two crew members ashore to receive stern lines this was an easier operation than it sometimes is - but it left the local who earns tips from catching them a bit put out!
We completed our business with the officials - which surprisingly did not involve a charge - except for water and electricity, which were 5 euros each. There is even a modest shower block - and you are allowed to stay for three nights for free. So we repaired to the harbour side for a very good lunch. Our waiter spoke excellent English - he had spent a year in Yorkshire in his youth. He told us that 90+% of visitors are German - hence the lack of English skills.
There are remains of some serious fortification in the bay - a system of tunnels in the cliffs leading to gun emplacements and observation towers. Apparently this was the only place that offered any resistance to Allied troops when they landed in June 1944. We went for a nice swim off the rocks on the ocean side of the breakwater and snoozed the rest of the day away! In the evening we had supper in the cockpit and there was a large crowd on the key coming and going - we felt a bit like exhibit A. All in all a top destination.
However, these guys seemed keen to help so after a bit of pointing at Google translate on i-Phone we were getting there - and then they spotted one of the restaurant owners on the quay who spoke English. The upshot was that there are five spots for visitors, stern on to the breakwater and three were already taken. So Peter and I beetled back to the boat in the pudding bowl and weighed anchor. With two crew members ashore to receive stern lines this was an easier operation than it sometimes is - but it left the local who earns tips from catching them a bit put out!
We completed our business with the officials - which surprisingly did not involve a charge - except for water and electricity, which were 5 euros each. There is even a modest shower block - and you are allowed to stay for three nights for free. So we repaired to the harbour side for a very good lunch. Our waiter spoke excellent English - he had spent a year in Yorkshire in his youth. He told us that 90+% of visitors are German - hence the lack of English skills.
There are remains of some serious fortification in the bay - a system of tunnels in the cliffs leading to gun emplacements and observation towers. Apparently this was the only place that offered any resistance to Allied troops when they landed in June 1944. We went for a nice swim off the rocks on the ocean side of the breakwater and snoozed the rest of the day away! In the evening we had supper in the cockpit and there was a large crowd on the key coming and going - we felt a bit like exhibit A. All in all a top destination.
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